Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a global network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – little-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their children are unwilling to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to discover these stories and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.